In honor of last night’s episode of The Taste, we asked guest mentor Naomi Pomeroy to share one of her favorite recipes with us.
This special-occasion recipe is as much about the meat as it is about what goes with the meat. A strip loin roast–or a boneless rib roast, which is slightly fattier but very similar–is a very practical and servable dish for a group. Resting is of the utmost importance–wait at least 20 minutes before slicing.
I use grass-fed beef because it aligns with my politics, but not everybody does. It’s important to consider your source for this dish, because the way your beef was raised will impact the way you should cook it. Corn-fed or corn-finished beef tends to have more fat and marbling, so it can take a hard sear in high heat. Grass-fed beef tends to be leaner, so I cook it on a slightly lower heat, and baste it with plenty of butter after searing to keep it moist. Either way, you’ll need to apply some weight to get a proper, even sear–whether you press the beef down with your tongs or toss another pan directly on top of it, make sure something is there to ensure the meat makes contact with the pan. Rotate the beef every 30 seconds or so until every side is evenly seared.
But the true hero of this dish is the demiglace. I cannot understate the importance of knowing how to make demiglace–it’s time-consuming, but a simple process that yields one of the most powerful ingredients in my kitchen. The only way to describe the taste is to call it the highly concentrated essence of savory. It’s a natural flavor enhancer, and a little bit goes a long way. We make two batches of demiglace a week at Beast, with 150 bones at a time, because we serve it on so many things. Once you taste it, you’ll want to put it on just about everything. A modest drizzle of demiglace will instantly heighten any piece of meat, and marrying it with rich heavy cream as you do in this recipe creates the most refined version of gravy you’ll ever encounter.
You can substitute different kinds of mushrooms if necessary, but do try to find a cultivated wild variety like oyster if you don’t have access to truly wild ones themselves–this is such a special dish that it really deserves the best you can find.